The closure of Shenton Park’s long-standing, old-world Italian institution Galileo Buona Cucina marked the end of an era for lovers of classic Italian staples and Sicilian-style peasant food. What could possibly match up to the legacy left in its wake?
Opening officially back on December 1, Bacco is bravely stepping up to the plate.
Although they’ve undertaken a significant update to the restaurant’s interior, Bacco’s checkerboard floors and wrought-iron archway retains a whisper of the venue’s old-world charm – although you won’t find any waistcoated staff here.
“I have always been passionate about food and to me, Italian dining should be a selection of the very best and not overcomplicate it – Bacco does that very well,” owner Alessandro Stoccuto said, pictured below with resident wine expert Kate Coleman.
On Head Chef Paolo D’esposito’s menu, you’ll find classic Italian flavours with a contemporary Australian lilt – starting with the curated selection of what we’d call substantial snacks: fried Montanara dough topped with whipped nduja-spiked ricotta, charred skewers of black Angus, stracciatella with Olasagasti anchovies, dry aged yellowfin crudo with Geraldton wax. Primi and secondi follow a similar Italian-by-way-of-Australia profile: risotto with sweet ama ebi prawns, topped with finger lime and delicate spoonfuls of Avruga caviar, or enticingly tender lamb rump with a coffee and wattle seed jus.
On the drinks front, wine takes centre stage – fitting for a restaurant named after the Roman god of wine.
“Before moving to Australia, I spent 12 years in Barolo, Italy, working with some of the delightful farmers that have wines on Bacco’s wine list,” explained Kate.
“For me, the story behind the wines is important and I feel really privileged to have an opportunity to showcase these unique wines from smaller producers, many of which I know personally.”
“We wanted to make Bacco about more than the food,” continued Alessandro.
“We wanted to create an intimate, yet welcoming, restaurant where guests can enjoy a beautiful dining experience in good company.”
“From the interior design and excellent service to the hand-selected wines and a different take on modern Italian cuisine, we want to ensure that customers have a beautiful experience.”
Bacco is located at 199 Onslow Road, Shenton Park.