Perth’s best restaurant, bar and café openings of 2024
It’s been a rollercoaster of a year – and while we’ve definitely said that phrase before, the hospitality landscape has never looked more precarious.
In spite of it all… When we look back at 2024, we’re heartened by not just the vast number of hospitality openings across Perth, but their uniqueness and, most importantly, quality. So, while we tried to keep things as succinct as we could, we nevertheless found ourselves waxing lyrical about retro-maximalist mixology, subterranean cyberpunk city diners, acoustically-committed restaurants hidden behind listening bars, cult-favourite suburban bakeries, nostalgic North American diners and shipping-container bagel joints.
From new brunch spots to check out this weekend to special occasion splurges: our favourite restaurant, bar and café openings in Perth for 2024…
RESTAURANTS & BARS
Ah Um
Hidden at the back of Northbridge listening bar Astral Weeks, restaurant Ah Um doesn’t do things by halves – not its commitment to acoustic experience, not in the restrained and devotedly seasonal menu from chef Branden Scott, not in its selection of esoteric sake from sourced via distributors Black Market. Quality over quantity to the core.
“It’s not just about the food or the drinks or the service,” explained Sean O’Neill, one of the collective of owners behind Ah Um and Astral Weeks.
“I don’t know very many restaurants in Perth that are really taking sound and music seriously, in terms of how is it affecting the atmosphere, and is someone actually thinking about it on shift and during service? Or is it just up to whoever’s on staff and then they’re going to be busy and they forget, or the confident person with bad taste puts something on and then everyone’s fucked!“
Shirley’s
It’s rare for a venue to exude as much warmth as Fremantle newcomer Shirley’s. Opening at the very start of 2024, the venue was originally conceived as an overflow from owner Jody and Kenny McHardy’s original (and wildly popular) venue, Manuka. Since then, they’ve sold Manuka to focus on the sweet new venue around the corner – which puts a more playful, nostalgic spin on Kenny’s signature woodfired magic.
Bar Love
Nestled in that sweet spot that’s kind of Northbridge, kind of Highgate – you know, that Golden Choice, Wines of While, Northbridge Hotel kind of territory – Bar Love has brought a taste of kitsch, retro fun to its Brisbane Street space.
Promising “Cold Drinks, Warm Service, Hot Bartenders”, the inclusive venue is a lesson in both maximalism and fun – helmed by hospo guns Pippa Canavan and Murray Walsh, they’ve put their world-class mixology skills to work with sips like their Peaches & Cream Negroni, or the Vamos Martini – the heart-thumping lovechild of an espresso martini and a Mont Blanc layered coffee.
Gibney
If there was one restaurant on everyone’s lips this year, it was Cottesloe’s newest bougie beachside brasserie. The passion project of restauranteur George Kailis, Gibney is undeniably a fine diner – and we’re talking staff-in-white-jackets, $48-tableside-Caesar, shiny-custom-cocktail-cart-serving-$28-martinis kind of fine diner… But there’s something we appreciate about how upfront the venue is about its price point, and by extension the level of service you can expect. At least for our tax bracket, this is definitely very special occasion territory – but you can be confident your experience will match the occasion.
Kub Kao
An impromptu mid-week visit spurred on by the combined powers of a comedy gig at the Astor and a foodie friend’s recent Instagram post… The stars aligned, and we were quickly head over heels for this Mount Lawley Thai. The little sister of Stirling’s Khao, while Kub Kao’s interior may be pared-back, their flavours are not – like the deliciously crispy salt and pepper roast pork belly, served with green peppercorns and aromatic kaffir lime leaves. (We also couldn’t resist swiping the crispy pork crackling through the creamy Choo Chee curry sauce, which was served with tender slices of grilled beef rump.)
Papi Katsu
One of a seemingly endless run of new openings from hospitality group Sesh Mafia (with more to come in 2025!), Papi Katsu slams together corporate fine dining with subterranean cyberpunk aesthetics and the brashness of a club promoter. Somehow… We’re into it. The excellence of the snacks certainly doesn’t hurt, nor does the world-class bartending, and a recent visit for their impressive omakase (helmed by chef Shane Middleton, following his stint at the glitzy 6HEAD) had us positively rapturous – we’ve told an embarrassing number of friends and family about the smokey marron course.
Cassia
This Fremantle newcomer balances its swanky fit out with the approachability of Australian barbecue – with the added benefit of Head Chef Emily Jones’ fine dining background. “It’s all about coming together, sharing with friends and family,” she told us back in July – and fittingly, while fire-roasted meats are centre stage, you’ll also find a thoughtful selection of plant-based plates to keep the whole family well-fed (and maybe even convince a few carnivores): think lion’s mane schnitty or smoked beetroot carpaccio.
The Bridge House
Anyone interested in Perth’s eating and drinking over the past 20 years will be all-too-familiar with the charming little house at 1 Harvest Road, North Fremantle: home to Habitué for almost nine years, and prior to that, the beloved restaurant Harvest. To say the least, we were curious to see what its next chapter would hold – until October, when The Bridge House was finally unveiled. Boundary-pushing enough to satisfy gastronomes, familiar enough that we’d take our parents, fancy enough for a birthday, but not so fancy we wouldn’t treat ourselves just because…
H&C Urban Winery
One of the first venues out of the gate this year, H&C Urban Winery has been a quiet achiever since – slowly but surely growing a solid fan base for its (huge) leafy interior, extensive wine list and, importantly, top-tier snacks from chef Gord Kahle. A good time whether you’re stopping in for the Tuesday night burger and a pint special, grabbing the gang for their Sunday bottomless sesh or just settling in for an afternoon of great eating and drinking.
Lo’
Tommy Tacos made its first appearance in Homme’s laneway in October 2023 – since then, chef Tomas Bidois’ once humble pop up has become a permanent fixture for hungry visitors to Highgate. But that was just the beginning, with the expansion into the restaurant proper in May. Hello, Lo’! While Tommy Tacos explores flavours from south of the border, Lo’ ventures into new-wave interpretations of staples of the American deep south – think fried chicken biscuits with country gravy or Berkshire pork chop, brined in tea and apple juice and served with Hoppin’ John. (Wallet feeling a bit light? They’ve got some approachable mid-week specials on offer that are well worth checking out.)
Moon & Mary
It seems like the word of 2024 was expansion, with more than a few seasoned operators expanding their stable of venues considerably – and a name that just kept appearing in our inboxes was Jacquie Chan! The pearl and diamond dealer turned dumpling maven behind Miss Chow’s, Chan has been hard at work – opening not just a Margaret River outpost of Miss Chow’s, but Fremantle’s Moon & Mary. Bringing three venues into one historic site, the modern menu focuses on seafood – with vibrant flavours that venture throughout Asia.
Fallow
Rustic interior, charming rooftop, fire-powered eats… Fallow was a particularly welcome addition to Northbridge in the dark depths of 2024’s winter. The venue is a joint effort from Chef Stuart Laws – long-time proponent of WA’s culinary landscape – along with Daniel Sterpini and Joel Beresford of now-shuttered craft beer favourite Dutch Trading Co. Go all-out with a mammoth 28-day dry aged T-bone – but then again, we can’t go past their “Fallow-style” prawn toast with spicy togarashi mayo.
Margot’s
After countless delays, Margot’s finally swung open the doors to their William Street bar back in July – with help from the gang at Sesh Mafia. The wine bar concept took a turn, instead focusing on a sharp selection of martinis and a European menu – but think the Baltic Sea, rather than the Mediterranean. Head chef Branagan McGann, Sesh Mafia’s Culinary Director Chase Weber and charcuterie master Adam Bielawski have combined their powers into a kind of trifecta of deliciousness, whether you’re nibbling on terrines, pickles and oysters, or indulging in one of their bougie Sunday arvo seafood towers. (And make sure not to miss that only-available-sometimes pastrami sandwich, made with bread baked-to-order!)
Ginza Nana Alley
From the same team as cult-favourite udon Hifumiya and its night-time izakaya Jigoro, Ginza Nana Alley brings the first ever yokocho-inspired experience to not just Perth – but to Australia. A labyrinth of laneways that replicate the yokochos of Tokyo, Ginza Nana Alley is packed with itty-bitty eateries serving up tasty Japanese street food… Think sizzling yakitori, crispy katsu, comforting oden and ramen and even a retro café.
Willi’s Pizza
Perhaps not, strictly speaking, a new opening – but Willi’s is absolutely worthy of a visit since its transformation from Euro wine bar to Detroit-style pizza bar.
Rarely seen in Perth, Detroit-style pizza is known for its rectangular shape and fluffy, thick base – which in this case, will be topped by a mix of classic nostalgic Americana flavours and some more high-brow interpretations of the style, courtesy of Head Chef Logan Place.
Hiyori
With a pared-back aesthetic and picture-perfect bento boxes, we were immediately intrigued by Hiyori, Manning’s newest Japanese restaurant. Alongside those signature magewappa bento (which feature premium massigura rice from Aomori prefecture, topped with options like wagyu roast beef, broiled shio koji salmon or grilled miso cod), the share plates make a convincing argument for an evening of sipping, yapping and snacking – ranging from the indulgent (crispy chicken skin, stacks of okonomiyaki with bacon, fried chicken wings) to the comforting (chawanmushi, sake and butter steamed clams, beef short ribs, yakitori) to the fresh and flavourful (poke tostadas, yuzu ponzo kingfish crudo, South Australian oysters).
FOUND Subiaco
Taking over the former Golden West site on Hay Street, the venue and its 15-hectolitre brewery have been given an upgrade over the past six months, including a shmick reno to the courtyard just in time for summer. Able to host 350 beer-lovers across FOUND Subiaco’s indoor and outdoor spaces, you can expect to taste a whopping 24 taps of FOUND beers, alongside a geographically-diverse, crowd-pleasing menu from head chef Ian Macintosh – think elevated takes on Dagwood dogs and burgers, New-York inspired pizza, and deliciously decadent snacks like ox tail donuts.
CAFÉS
Lovers Deli & Canteen
We’ve barely stopped talking about this White Gum Valley café since visiting it a few weeks ago – and we don’t plan on stopping anytime soon! Lovers is brainchild Mia Gammon and Jake Carter – co-owners of Mosman Park and Fremantle cafés Good Things, plus Jake’s coffee roasting outfit Double Double – along with chef Shauna Shapiro, who is also behind pop-up Polly’s Bagels. Together, they’ve created a new-wave diner that alchemises its nostalgic North American influences through an antipodean lens… In other words, great brekkie and lunch plates that everyone’ll love.
Dough Street
With plenty of dietaries amongst the Perth is OK! ranks, the arrival of Dough Street caused quite the frenzy! The 100% gluten free bakery is owned by locals Mel (who’s gluten intolerant) and Nathan (who’s coeliac), who were inspired to open the bakery after a trip to Italy a few years ago and all the gluten free goodies they were able to enjoy. Their impressive range of baked goods will cure the cravings of any gluten-free friend – like gooey cinnamon buns, flakey, golden croissants, pain au chocolat and danishes, decadent cookies and the viral croissant-cookie hybrid, the crookie.
Everyday Bread Hamilton Hill
And if you’re not gluten free? You’ll probably need no introduction to Everyday Bread. The bakers built a devoted cult following at their original location in Willagee, heightened by their unconventional approach to baking hours.
“We want to keep up the afternoon bread trade because we really stand behind that and believe in that,” baker Zach Flemming told us back in March, ahead of the new Hamilton Hill location opening up in the spring.
“It’s changing the narrative, particularly here in Australia that ‘You must go to the bakery and get a load of bread between 6 and 2pm’, and then after that it’s game over, and you’ve got to settle for sub par bread, sub par product.”
Sub par this is not: transcendently good, dark-crusted loaves, flaky viennoiserie, and a twisty cardamom scroll dusted with a mix of salt and sugar that we’ve been dreaming about ever since. Don’t even get us started on hot cross bun season…
Preston’s Deli
We were breathlessly anticipating the arrival of Preston’s – and they didn’t disappoint. Impressive on just about every front (their collaborators are a who’s who of the best of the best: in branding, signage, custom furniture, menu collaborators, artwork…), the proof is really in the pudding. Or rather, that toweringly high fish finger sando, that cheese-laden sausage and egg muffin, those delectable Double Double coffees.
Staples Bagels
While some of these newcomers had us in a frenzy for endless months – Staples Bagels was suddenly there: open for business, right under our noses! A quick skedaddle down to South Freo and we were delighted to discover that not only was their shipping container location rather cute, but their bagel game was A-plus. The chicken Caesar was an instant crowd favourite – although we’ve found ourselves day dreaming about that pickled onion and smoked salmon combo with what you might describe as alarming frequency.
Gill St. Deli
This neighbourhood deli and café changed hands at the start of the year, reopening in May under the stewardship of Community Wine Group – the locals behind wine bar Pep’s, Stuart St. Cellars, and incoming pizza bar Aggies. The same community-minded feel remains, but refreshed and renewed – think old-school staple sandwiches and mixed lolly bags for after-school visits, but also açai bowl, matcha and premium pantry goods.
Strollio’s
Are we all doing OK? While we called expansion as the word of the year when it comes to bars and restaurants, cafés leant heavily on nostalgia – and we latched on with gusto! Almost like… We were yearning for childhood pleasures and simpler times?
One such nostalgic throwback is the very excellent Strollio’s, which we’ve been yapping about to anyone that will listen. Inspired by childhood corner delis, old-school lunch bars and London caffs – but through the discerning, youthful eyes of owners Nathan Alexander and Hannah Budge. Just about everything is made in-house, transforming memories of childhood classics like fresh salad sammies into their Platonic ideal.
Aunty Lucy’s Cakery
Aunty Lucy’s array of baked treats may be sweet… But their vibes are even sweeter! Tucked down the leafy, charming Tum Tum Tree Lane in Freo, in the quirky space previously home to the Juicy Beetroot – that’s behind Manuka, if you’re not familiar – Aunty Lucy’s Cakery is all thanks to baker Lucy Cosgriff, who earned legions of fans from her long-running stall at the Fremantle Farmers Market under the moniker The Well-Rested Baker. Here, her baking prowess is showcased with jam-packed cabinets of fluffy, towering cakes, gooey cookies and pies with perfectly golden crusts – a true treat for any sweet-tooth. (If you’re worried about missing out, the cakery’s robust selection of classic rotations include a gluten free, dairy free and vegan options.)
Slow Daze
Ask any Subi local where to get a coffee and chances are they’ll rave about Obi Coffee – and not just about their killer coffee game (the café is helmed by two former Micrology Coffee guns, CJ Lovell and Jamie Wolf), but about the café’s warm service and great vibes. Winter saw the team take over the pint-sized Myrtle Ivy, just down the road in West Leederville, transforming it into Slow Daze in just a week. Coffees are just as good as their big sibling in Subi, but the addition of a kitchen (albeit an itty-bitty one!) means more options for brekkie and lunch – think sausage and egg muffins, chicken katsu sandos, bagels, wraps and more.
Bagel O’s Subiaco
The bagel that launched a thousand queues! After their long-awaited Mount Lawley store went gangbusters, it was clear the Bagel O’s needed to expand – and Subi was the lucky location.
“We’ve noticed how fortunate we are and how blessed we are, and how lucky we are that customers have responded the way they have,” owner Sha Tehrani told us in the midst of frenetic pre-opening preparations, plumbing deliveries, furniture assemblies and questions from curious passers-by.
“Without customers, you’re nothing. Every day I always think about it: this could have gone another way. […] It needs to be amazing food, amazing customer service, and the experience overall needs to be exceptional. You’re only as good as your last day.”
At Home Coffee Co.
Although it’s in a vast warehouse space in Myaree, At Home Coffee Co. is as warm and welcoming as a nourishing bowl of congee. Owner and barista Kartika Zhuang blends 11 years of experience behind the coffee machine and a passion for specialty coffee with a genuine love of connecting with people.
“I really love how you are able to connect with people over coffee,” she told us back in August.
“If you’re a working barista, you’re connecting with so many customers – sometimes you actually see these people every day, but you might not see your family every day. There’s such a precious moment in that scenario.”
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And while the coffee is, fittingly, excellent… We also found ourselves raving about their often-changing food offerings – like the aforementioned congee, topped with golden mushrooms, or their creamy tamago toastie that had us dreaming about gooey boiled eggs all week.
March Coffee Studio
How many times have you had a particularly great coffee (or cocktail?) and not realised it was made by a world-class champion? We suspect that it’s more often than you might think. Case in point: CBD workers may have noticed a new café arrive at the base of 140 William earlier this year – one with an intriguing specialty menu and some especially friendly baristas.
March Coffee Studio is the passion project of champion barista Ziggy Varamulia, who’s turned his knack for engineering to a meticulous, technical approach to coffee – a technical approach offset by his disarmingly friendly demeanour. While you can still get your classic flat whites and long macs from the café, those with a more adventurous palette can delve into rare beans, experimental concoctions and designer lattes.
Common Bakery Fremantle
Freo’s West End is a particularly picturesque part of the Port City, and we’re only too happy to find another excuse for a visit – and this year’s new Common Bakery outpost is a very good reason indeed! Head there for their signature Common loaves, stellar sweet treats, their own Good Seeds coffee roasted with the folks at Mano a Mano, plus a deliciously exciting new range of focaccias.
Magic Apple
As if opening Gibney wasn’t ambitious enough, Kailis Hospitality Group also took the helm of the iconic Marine Parade venue formerly home to Barchetta – and revived long-long wholefoods brand Magic Apple in the process. One part wellness café, one part beachfront restaurant, entirely psychedelic: the ’70s are alive and well in Cott! Their ethos is “Mindful Nourishment”, so while you can still dine-in under that rainbow ceiling with a glass of vino or a coastal cocktail, their menu is a nourishing mix of lacto-pickles, steamed salmon, marinated tofu and more – often served atop their signature Magic Rice.